El Barrio Chino de Barcelona

El Barrio Chino no longer exists, but a few places still preserve its essence. This list takes you through those spaces that refuse to be forgotten in a deeply transformed neighborhood. From the temples of absinthe and popular modernisme to the strongholds of drag performance and libertarian culture, these venues safeguard the spirit of a rogue, rebellious, and profoundly human Barcelona that refuses to disappear.

Catalonia, Spain - Barcelona

Casa Almirall

By @entrespacios

Opened in 1860, Casa Almirall was founded at the height of the Raval’s industrial boom, when the neighborhood filled with factories, workshops, and a working-class population living in harsh, overcrowded conditions. In that context, cafés and taverns became key spaces of sociability: places where newspapers were read, politics debated, and community woven together. Just across the street stood the headquarters of the CNT, the major anarchist trade union that shaped Barcelona’s labor history, and Casa Almirall was a direct witness to that social fervor. Over glasses of anís, militants and neighbors shared breaks, debates, and everyday life throughout the 19th and 20th centuries.

Address: Carrer de Joaquín Costa, 33, Ciutat Vella, 08001 Barcelona, Spain

  • Why go

    It may not be the oldest bar in the city, but it is one of the best preserved. It retains almost intact the atmosphere of the popular cafés of industrial Raval, where daily life, politics, and neighborhood culture intertwined. Here, modernisme is neither monumental nor elitist, but lived — rooted at street level.

  • Known for

    Its original modernista interior, with marble, carved wood, and period lamps, preserved in a bar that never ceased to be connected to the neighborhood’s working-class life. On the bar sits a sculpture that was exhibited at the 1888 Universal Exposition — a detail that neatly captures this everyday, popular version of modernisme.

  • Transport

    Easily reached on foot through the Raval. If taking the metro, the nearest station is Universitat (L1 and L2).

  • Vibe

    Calm and authentic, with a mostly local crowd and visitors interested in the neighborhood’s history. It’s a spacious spot, well suited for gathering with friends and sitting down unhurriedly.

  • Tips

    Casa Almirall has plenty around it. Carrer Joaquín Costa is lined with characterful bars and reasonably priced spots. For something quick and affordable to eat, Bismillah Kebabish is a neighborhood staple. Depending on the time of day, don’t miss La Rosa de Foc, a bookstore specializing in anarchism that is deeply tied to the Raval’s social history.

About @entrespacios

I’m Carmen, a Colombian historian. I arrived in Barcelona in 2015, convinced that a master’s degree in Art History, combined with my experience as a teacher and museum guide, would open many doors for me. Spoiler: it didn’t. After several rejections, I started working as a tour guide, thinking it would be temporary. What I didn’t expect was that this job would become a true passion: historical storytelling. Today, I dedicate myself to sharing the history of Barcelona (and the occasional other topic) with the world, one street and one screen at a time.

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